Todd's Nano Reef Aquarium: (Nearly) Complete Installation

Installed:

Nanocustoms ICA Chiller: Silicone Tubing 16", AC Adapter Variable 3-12v/ 1200mA AC Adapter, AC Adapter Variable 3-8.4v/ 2500mA AC Adapter
NVM Moonlight Fix: AC Adapter Variable 3-12v/ 1200mA AC Adapter, Dual Harness, 2 Extra LEDs
3.36 series Nanocustoms Modded Lighting Upgrade DIY (for 2004 Nanocube 24DX) : w/ Bare Ballast, Additional T-5 (10W) Actinic Blue bulb/bracket/ballast, 1x PowerCompact 36w 10K/7.1K Combo
JBJ PL36W Blue Actinic PC bulb, linear pin config

Notable:

See Figures 1- 15 below.
It took 10 hours to complete
Was not obvious how to combine installation instructions for the ICA, NVM Fix/expansion, and 3.36 Lighting kit.
Not sure the original problem (perhaps 1 bad LED) but ending up with two bad. Wired for the two working (1 new, 1 old), and have them operating at 6v.
3.36 Kit instructions written for the 2005 model, had to adjust for the 2004 splash guard (See Figures 6-8)
Insruction Wire colors were different (because its a 2004?):

existing notch used to route pump cord
existing notch with pump gromet used for both ICA and FAN power
1st RDX existing hole w/strain-relief
2nd RDX existing hole w/strain-relief
3rd RDX hole w/strain-relief
7/16 hole for Size N coaxial panel-mount Jack (RadioShack #274-1576) used for Moonlights (thus avoiding cutting the DC power supply plug cord)
3/16" hole was intended for Moonlight leads, but not used
existing notch on far right used for T5 Fixture, Heater, and Powerhead

Splashguard was obscured by mineral build-ups. In sink, covered with two papertowels, soaked with vinegar, let stand for 30 mins, and then rinsed thoroughly (see Figure 2 vs Figure 6).
Chiller and Fans wired to be on with main lights (see Figure 1)
Used RadioShack (#64-3073) Insulated Telephone Butt Connectors (22-26 guage) for the Moonlight and Fan wiring.
When installing ICA, used a single #6 lock washer (med. split, zinc) per screw to avoid sinking them to far into the hood (a method of cutting the screws was mentioned somewhere) (see Figure 8)
Suggest mock-ing up the wiring completely a couple times prior to cutting, etc.
All the PST power adapters use the "large" plug which is a 2.50x5.5mm
Remove the ballast Fuse and used that opening for the power cord - the instructions made no specific mention of where the power cord enters (See Figure 9)
Installed the ICA such that the input came from the Right side connected to the pump via ~6" of tubing into the 3rd chamber (right-most), and the output came from the left via ~10" of tubing wraping around to the tank return nozzel with its "elbow" aimed left. Used wire-ties to clamp down all four ends (See Figure 15).

Questions:

What voltages are the original JBJ and the Nanocustoms replacement blue LED's?
What was the small (not for JBJ Remote Disconnect cable) strain relief for?
Suggestions on sealing between ICA and splash guard. There's an 1/8" gap (See Figure 8).
How to reduce rattle of the new, more powerful, pump?
How was 8.4V 2.5A decided for the Switech TEC 78w device?
Recommendations on phasing in the new extra lighting? And how much total? I was thinking 1 hr of the Actinics the first week, then +1 hour each week until there's 6-8 hours.

Next steps:

Adjust end caps in ~1/8" so they better clear the inset portion of the splash guard (See Figure 6).
Need new large strain relief (sized for JBJ Remote Disconnect cable), and use on ballast for new RDX cable.
Get 2 new Replacement LEDs.
Put silicon inside the closed end crimps.
Re-add the Moonlight switch on the hood, to control (when desired) moonlights (See Figure 4).
Seal 1/8" gap between ICA and splash guard (See Figure 8).

Chiller Observations - ICA 8.4v, Fan 9v (shared with hood fan):

4:35pm - 77.7F
5:35pm - 77.0F
6:35om - 77.4F
7:50pm - 77.7F
Note sure what to make of above - going to leave off as it doesn't need to be on at these temps and it may be fighting the heater.
12:35am - 78.0 (main lights off, fans off, ICA off)

Water change:

2.5Gal
32oz FW replacement (to lower salinity)
Post SG = 1.0255
Used the Aqua Medic Reef Tweezers to remove a great deal of various smaller macro algea (~1 cup) that proved difficult to remove otherwise.

Mounted some LR frags:

1 large pieces on the top rock by about 5 stalks.
1 piece on the original Xenia branching LR as there are 5 stalks there now (again).
Was able to catch a 1" long Bristle worm and remove it.

Feeding:

Observations:

Noticed a new hitchhiker - it 1/2"-3/4" long, pale green, and I think it might be a Nudibranch, hanging around my Smooth Orange Mushroom Anemones (Corallimorpharia Actinodiscus) - I wonder what its eating?

Have an identification for the red algea on the right side of the tank, Gelidium, a nuisance.
Noticed something bright red, wide, and fuzzy(?) quickly dissapear back into the rocks, amid a cloud of red (that quickly dispersed). A quick search showed that "ink" may sometimes come from Sea Hares (Order Anaspidea, a type of sea slug, ink described as "purple" or sometimes "red"), or Cephalopods (Octopus, Cuttlefish, Squid - but this seems very unlikely). If it is a hitchiker Sea Hare, the good news is they are herbivores, but the bad news is the ink can be hazardous to the rest of the tank! Sea Slug Forum - Order Anaspidea Although I doubt it would be hiding in the rocks.

Figure 1: Modified Nanocube Electical block diagram